For Spring-Summer 1994, the men’s suit was still dominant, countered by pajamas for evening and day. Long dresses that were light and fluid made regular appearances.
A voluntarily haphazard wardrobe established the random element of a tartan coat over a printed dress: for Autumn-Winter 1996–1997, the first dresses in devoré velvet and mousseline appeared. The flowers on them were skillfully ragged, while tone-on-tone stripes exuded the charm of cut stems.
The search for fabrics, whose properties Martine Sitbon used to accentuate a relief or bring out a pattern, culminated in the Autumn-Winter 1997–1998 collection. Dresses were like snapshots of forest undergrowth at twilight. Disquieting motifs, such as leaves and branches in red and black, formed one of the designer’s most beautiful collections.
